China Travel
Budget China: Beijing’s Fragrant Hills and Autumn Foliage for Under $40 a Day
Budget China: Beijing’s Fragrant Hills and Autumn Foliage for Under $40 a Day
Autumn in Beijing is a spectacle of nature’s artistry, and few places capture this seasonal magic as vividly as the Fragrant Hills Park (Xiangshan Park). While China’s capital is often associated with imperial grandeur and modern extravagance, it is entirely possible to experience one of its most breathtaking natural wonders on a shoestring budget. For travelers seeking beauty without breaking the bank, a day trip to the Fragrant Hills during peak foliage season offers an unforgettable adventure for under $40—including transportation, meals, entrance fees, and even souvenirs.
Why Fragrant Hills in Autumn?
Located in Beijing’s northwestern Haidian District, the Fragrant Hills transform into a fiery canvas of red, orange, and gold from mid-October to early November. The park’s thousands of maple and smoke trees, particularly the iconic Cotinus coggygria (smoke tree), create a breathtaking landscape that has inspired poets and painters for centuries. Unlike the Forbidden City or the Great Wall, which draw massive crowds year-round, Xiangshan provides a serene escape into nature without sacrificing accessibility or affordability.
Getting There on a Budget
Beijing’s public transportation system is both efficient and incredibly cheap. From central areas like Dongcheng or Xicheng, take the subway Line 4 to Beigongmen Station (approx. ¥5 or $0.70). From there, exit through Gate C2 and hop on bus No. 563, which goes directly to Xiangshan Station (¥2, or $0.30). Alternatively, a taxi from central Beijing costs around ¥60-80 ($8-11), but sharing with fellow travelers can make it even cheaper. Total round-trip transportation should not exceed ¥20 ($3).
Entrance and Exploration
The park entrance fee is surprisingly modest: ¥10 ($1.40) during the off-season and ¥15 ($2.10) during the peak autumn period. For an additional ¥5 ($0.70), you can purchase a map highlighting the best foliage viewpoints and hiking trails. The park covers 160 hectares, so wearing comfortable shoes is essential.
Begin your ascent along the well-paved paths, passing traditional pavilions, temples, and gardens. The most popular route is the steep but rewarding climb to Incense Burner Peak (Xianglu Feng), the highest point at 557 meters. The hike takes about 1.5–2 hours at a leisurely pace, with countless photo opportunities along the way. For those preferring a less strenuous option, the cable car is available for ¥80 ($11) one-way, but skipping it saves money and offers a more immersive experience.
Must-See Spots
- Jianxin Temple: A quiet Ming-era temple complex nestled halfway up the mountain, perfect for contemplation.
- Glazed Pagoda: An 18th-century structure adorned with colorful glazed tiles, shimmering against the autumn hues.
- Shuangqing Villa: Once Mao Zedong’s residence, now a historical exhibit surrounded by lush gardens.
- Foliage Observation Decks: Scattered across the slopes, these platforms offer panoramic views of the crimson-covered valleys.
Eating for Less
Food inside the park is overpriced, so pack snacks like baozi (steamed buns) or jianbing (savory crepes) from street vendors near your hostel (approx. ¥10/$1.40). For lunch, exit the park and explore the small eateries along Xiangshan Road. A bowl of hearty Lanzhou beef noodle soup costs about ¥20 ($2.80), or you can indulge in a plate of jiaozi (dumplings) for ¥15 ($2.10). Stay hydrated with bottled water (¥3/$0.40) from local shops rather than buying inside.
If you prefer a sit-down meal, the area around the park entrance offers modest restaurants serving classic northern Chinese dishes like Kung Pao chicken or eggplant with garlic sauce for ¥25-35 ($3.50–5). A full meal with rice and tea should not exceed ¥40 ($5.60).
Souvenirs and Mementos
Avoid the souvenir shops inside the park. Instead, browse the stalls near the bus station, where you’ll find autumn-themed postcards, hand-pressed maple leaf bookmarks, and traditional Chinese paintings for as little as ¥10–20 ($1.40–2.80). A small watercolor scroll or a packet of fragrant dried leaves makes for a meaningful and affordable keepsake.
Timing and Tips
Weekdays are less crowded than weekends. Arrive early (park opens at 6 a.m.) to avoid the worst of the crowds and catch the soft morning light illuminating the foliage. Sunset from Incense Burner Peak is spectacular but requires descending carefully in the dark—bring a small flashlight or use your phone light.
Total Cost Breakdown

- Transportation: ¥20 ($3)
- Entrance fee: ¥15 ($2.10)
- Food and water: ¥50 ($7)
- Souvenirs: ¥20 ($2.80)
Total: ¥105 (approx. $15)
Even with a buffer for unexpected expenses, you’ll stay well under $40. For an extended experience, consider pairing Xiangshan with a visit to the nearby Beijing Botanical Garden (¥10 entrance) or the Azure Clouds Temple (¥10), both within walking distance.
Conclusion
Beijing’s Fragrant Hills in autumn prove that the city’s greatest treasures aren’t always behind pricey admission gates. With careful planning and a spirit of adventure, you can witness one of China’s most stunning natural phenomena without straining your wallet. As the crimson leaves flutter against ancient temples and rugged peaks, you’ll realize that some of the best things in life—and travel—are indeed affordable.
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